RAPHAEL BAR RISTO,

This semi-formal bistro is roomy and warm, with crystal chandeliers hanging from the ceilings and subdued artwork covering the walls. The Italian-trained chef and owner, Ralph Conte, keeps his restaurant hip, giving credit to his RISD-trained wife, Elisa. The menu lays out a manageable 16 main course selection of pastas, seafood, and meat. The grilled pork chops ($14.95) are juicy and center-cut, served on a generous pile of spinach mixed with pine nuts. Grilled Yukon potatoes lie in the meat juices; on top of the pork chops, delicious figs and red onions. Another recommended meat dish is the sage-roasted chicken breast ($15.95). Two pieces of chicken enwrap portobello mushrooms and are topped with-a heavy amount of Sicilian olives. They are served over a rich, yellow-corn polenta. For dessert, all of the selections ($6.95) are house-made, and the dark-chocolate-mousse layered cake is particularly tasty.

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